How to Do a Moroccan Desert Camp Solo
A night in Morocco’s Sahara Desert is one of those experiences that stays with you long after you’ve left.
It’s not just about being surrounded by undulating dunes (although that is amazing!) It’s the silence. The stargazing. And getting a taste of life for the region’s semi-nomadic Amazigh people.
But if you’re travelling alone, the idea of heading into the Sahara can feel a little daunting. I get it. I’ve been there myself and had more than a few concerns before my solo trip to a Moroccan desert camp.
But I’m here to tell you that doing a desert camp solo in Morocco is most definitely possible. And in my opinion, it’s one of the most rewarding ways to experience it.
Here’s how to do it right.
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Choose the Right Desert
When people talk about “the Sahara,” they’re usually referring to one of two main dune areas in Morocco: Erg Chebbi (accessed via the gateway town of Merzouga) and Erg Chigaga (near M’Hamid El Ghizlane).
Merzouga is the most popular choice – its dunes are higher and it has a wider choice of desert camps. There are far more tours travelling to Erg Chebbi and the journey takes you via Ouarzazate, Dades Gorge and the Valley of Roses.
M’Hamid is more remote, despite the journey from Marrakech being slightly shorter. The drive takes you along the Route of 1,000 Kasbahs with its palm oases, desert towns and crumbling kasbahs.
While the dunes of Erg Chigaga aren’t quite as dramatic, the sense of “wilderness” you get here is far greater. There just aren’t as many camps, so there aren’t as many people.
The desert that’s “right” for you depends on personal preference. Do you want towering dunes and a more social atmosphere? Or do you want to experience the Sahara with a sense of remote solitude?
Decide: Group Tour or Independent?
As a solo traveller, this is your biggest decision.
Do you want to venture to Merzouga or M’Hamid independently (by bus or rental car) and organise a desert camp experience yourself? Or do you want to join a small-group tour in Marrakech or Fes and have all the logistics taken care of for you?
Group Tours
Tours are the easiest option for getting to the Sahara solo and they’re not as expensive as you might think (particularly for small-group tours).
Everything is arranged for you – transport, accommodation and desert excursions – and some meals are included.
Opting for a group tour is a great way to meet other travellers, which (as you probably know) can be hit or miss. Sometimes, you end up with a fantastic group of like-minded people and make friendships for life. At other times, there are one or two really annoying people who irk you the entire trip!
Group tours come with other trade-offs: long driving days, fixed schedules and limited flexibility. You can’t stop at places that pique your interest along the way (other than scheduled stops) and you don’t necessarily get to choose the desert camp you want to stay at.
That being said, I still think they’re a great option for many travellers visiting the Sahara solo.
Independent
Travelling independently to the Sahara Desert definitely offers more freedom. You can travel at your own pace, either by taking buses or renting a car in Marrakech or Fes, then book a desert camp locally or online.
One of the main benefits is you get to select the camp you want, with the level of luxury you want.
Not only do you get to decide how long you spend in the Sahara Desert, but you can make overnight stops along the way in places like Dades Gorge or Skoura.
In short, you aren’t restricted to the well-trodden tourist trail that all the tours cover and you can create a more leisurely itinerary than the typical 3-day/2-night desert tour.
The drawbacks? Renting a car as a solo traveller isn’t for everyone, just as driving in Morocco isn’t for everyone.
I’ve done it several times and now feel confident behind the wheel outside of the cities. But it does take a little getting used to.
If you’re using public transport, you’re restricted to bus schedules and be prepared for a long journey to and from the desert.
Getting off the main highway isn’t super easy either. You start having to rely on grand taxis (and the inevitable wait for them to fill up) to get to places like Ait Benhaddou.
Getting to the Sahara Desert
Reaching the Sahara Desert is all part of the adventure and I would highly recommend you take your time…if you have the time available!
My favourite places to break up the journey include Skoura (it has some wonderful kasbah hotels and the incredible L’Ma Lodge) and Dades Gorge (the rock formations are sublime!)
From Marrakech, expect a full day of travel to reach Merzouga, crossing the Atlas Mountains via the dramatic Tizi n’Tichka Pass.
By bus, you can travel from Marrakech to Ouarzazate with CTM, then switch to a Supratours bus (departing Ouarzazate at 12:45) for the rest of the journey.
If you want to stop in Skoura or Dades, you’ll need to rely on grand or petit taxis to get you from the main highway (where the buses stop) to your accommodation.
Heading to M’Hamid and the dunes of Erg Chigaga? There’s a direct CTM bus that leaves Marrakech at 11:30 am and reaches M’Hamid at 9:30 pm.
If you want to break up the journey, there are several little-visited but fascinating towns with good accommodation options along the way. Check out my article on the Route of 1,000 Kasbahs for more info.
From Fes, the journey to Merzouga is slightly shorter but equally scenic. There’s an overnight Supratours bus departing Fes at 20:00, arriving in Merzouga at 6:45 am.
The only problem with an overnight trip is you miss all the incredible scenery along the way! From Fes to Merzouga, this includes the Swiss-inspired town of Ifrane, the Barbary macaque-filled forests of Azrou and the spectacular Ziz Valley.
Fes to M’Hamid is a long journey (10+ hours) and difficult to do by bus. Personally, I wouldn’t recommend it unless you’re willing to spend 24 hours in transit and make multiple connections.
Picking the Right Sahara Desert Camp for Solo Travellers
If you’re joining a small-group Sahara Desert tour, the camp will be selected for you.
That being said, you can shop around to find a tour that stays at the camp you want. You might just have to send a few emails, because this isn’t always revealed on the tour listing.
For solo travellers making their own way to Merzouga or M’Hamid, you’re spoiled for choice.
Generally speaking, you’ll find three categories of desert camps in the Sahara:
- Basic camps: simple tents, shared bathroom facilities, budget-friendly
- Mid-range camps: private tents, comfortable beds, good food
- Luxury camps: en-suite bathrooms, stylish decor, high-level comfort
The style of camp that’s right for you is highly personal. I’m not going to suggest you splurge on a luxury camp if you love a down-to-earth camping experience.
At the same time, I don’t think you should deprive yourself of creature comforts to have an “authentic” nomadic experience. After all, this might be your one and only time to overnight in the Sahara Desert, so you may as well do it in style!
What I would say is that some of the cheaper Moroccan desert camps are built quite close to one another. This is particularly true in Erg Chebbi – the more popular of the two dune systems.
Don’t be surprised if you hear a bit of noise from fireside drumming or boisterous groups at nearby camps. This may or may not worry you.
High-end camps tend to have more of a “remote” feeling and a bit more space around them. If you want to experience the desert silence in all its glory, it might be worth spending a little more.
When researching camps, I would highly recommend looking for ones that emphasise sustainability. After all, the Sahara is a fragile environment and resource-intensive infrastructure puts a lot of pressure on it.
I gravitate towards camps that clearly outline (on their website) what their sustainability policies are and how they are taking steps to minimise their environmental footprint.
You can learn more about how tourism supports (and hurts) Morocco’s desert communities here.
Also, check what is and isn’t included in your stay. Most Sahara Desert camps include dinner and breakfast in their overnight rates. Some also include activities – camel treks, sandboarding, guided stargazing.
Be clear about what you are paying for upfront, so you aren’t left with unexpected surprises at the end of your stay.
And, as always, look for properties that have strong, recent reviews from other travellers. You can find all sorts of invaluable pieces of information hidden away in reviews!
Was the food amazing? Did the camp deliver on all the activities promised? And did the hospitality go above and beyond? (This is a common one from travellers visiting Morocco).
What to Expect at a Moroccan Desert Camp
While each Sahara Desert camp is slightly different, most follow a schedule that goes something like this:
- Arrive in the late afternoon to Merzouga or M’Hamid and switch to a camel (or 4WD) for the journey into the dunes.
- Enjoy a welcome tea and settle into your tent.
- Climb one of the nearby dunes to watch the sunset, with the dunes changing from shades of gold to orange and ochre.
- Feast on a traditional Moroccan meal during a communal dinner, often followed by traditional music around a campfire.
- Once it’s completely dark, enjoy incredible stargazing, with almost zero light pollution.
- Wake early for sunrise over the dunes and breakfast at your camp.
- Return to Merzouga or M’Hamid by camel or 4WD.
Is it Safe to do a Moroccan Desert Camp Solo?
Absolutely! Generally speaking, Morocco is safe for solo travellers and desert camps are well-established operations used to hosting people from around the world.
I’ve stayed at several independently and have never had any issues. In fact, it’s been the opposite – the hospitality is always incredible and the remote setting makes me feel safer than being in a big, bustling city.
Once you’re in Merzouga or M’Hamid, you’ll be with local guides and other tourists as you travel into the desert. So you’re not going to be “alone” in the true sense of the word.
That being said, you should always take precautions when travelling anywhere solo and that extends to a desert camp.
- Book reputable camps or tours that have verified reviews from other travellers. Type “solo” into the search field to find reviews from independent travellers.
- Share your itinerary with someone back home and let them know exactly where you will be staying.
- Avoid arriving late at night in remote towns. If you have to (due to bus connections), select an accommodation close by and make sure the owner knows you will be arriving late.
What to Pack for a Solo Trip to the Sahara Desert
Conditions in the Sahara Desert can be extreme, with really hot days and surprisingly chilly nights at certain times of the year.
If you’re visiting in the summertime, the daytime temps can be unbearable. Honestly, I wouldn’t recommend doing a Moroccan desert camp solo at this time of the year if you can avoid it.
Spring, autumn and even winter are a much better choice.
Yes, it can be really cold on winter nights. But most (if not all) Sahara Desert camps have campfires where you can huddle up and stay warm. Plus, they’ll heap you with blankets to create a cosy cocoon once you go to bed!
Whenever you’re planning your solo trip to the Sahara, be sure to bring:
- Lightweight, breathable clothing
- Warm layers for the evening
- A scarf or buff (for sand and sun)
- Sunscreen and sunglasses
- A torch or headlamp
- Power bank (electricity can be limited)
The Solo Advantage
Okay, so I said at the start that I thought a solo trip to the Sahara Desert can be one of the most rewarding ways to do it…and I stand by that!
I’m a big proponent of solo travel, largely because I feel I observe and notice so much more when I’m not distracted in conversation with my travel companion.
That’s not to say I don’t love travelling with my husband and friends (if they’re reading – I love you!)
But solo travel is a different experience, and in an environment as mesmerising as the Sahara Desert, being keenly observant can be transformative.
Everything from the sound of the sand beneath your feet to the silence that permeates the air and the changing colours of the dunes is incredible! And as a solo traveller, you can really soak all of that in.
So rather than letting a lack of travel companions deter you from a Sahara trip, I would embrace doing a Moroccan desert camp solo. It might just ending up being your favourite North African experience.
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I’m Malika, an Australian-born travel writer with an intense love for Morocco. I first travelled here solo in 2014 and after meeting (and marrying) a local, I made this North African gem my home.
Over the last 10 years, I have explored the country extensively, travelling to all corners with my partner, friends and solo.
