A luxury desert camp in Agafay Desert, Morocco
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Agafay vs Sahara: Which Desert Experience is Best for Solo Travellers

One question I see popping up time and time again is whether to visit Agafay vs Sahara on a solo trip to Morocco. Both of these desert regions offer incredible experiences but they really are like chalk and cheese – their landscapes are completely different and while one is really remote, the other is just a stone’s throw from Marrakech.

Having explored both Agafay and the Sahara while travelling around Morocco solo, the main thing I think they share in common is their exceptional camps. Overnighting in the desert really is a quintessential North African experience and something I encourage all travellers to do, including solo adventurers!

Staying at a desert camp allows you to experience Morocco beyond its big cities and bustling medinas while getting a taste of nomadic life. 

In a perfect world with endless travel opportunities and money to burn, I would suggest that everybody visits both Agafay and the Sahara. But I understand that’s not feasible or realistic, particularly if you’re solo travelling around Morocco on a budget.

So instead, I’ve put together this article explaining the differences between Agafay vs Sahara to help you decide which is right for you. There is no “right” or “wrong” choice. In the end, it will hinge on the type of desert adventure you desire, the time you can spare and how you want to allocate your travel budget.

A luxury desert camp in Agafay Desert, Morocco
A luxury desert camp overlooking the Atlas Mountains in Agafay, Morocco

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Agafay is best for solo travellers who:

Don’t like driving long distances
Want a luxury desert experience near Marrakech
Don’t have time to travel to the Sahara
Want lots of activity options

Sahara is best for solo travellers who:

Have more time (and a desire) to explore Morocco
Want to experience the Sahara’s nomadic cultures
Are craving a wilderness-like desert experience
Want to spread their tourist dollars beyond the Marrakech region

Sunrise over the wind-sculpted dunes of the Sahara Desert, Morocco
Sunrise over the wind-sculpted dunes of the Sahara Desert, Morocco

Visiting Agafay as a solo traveller

Agafay is an arid region situated just 35 kilometres southwest of Marrakech and can be reached in less than an hour’s drive from the “Red City”. It’s known for its rocky desert landscapes, rolling hills and dry riverbeds, as well as small sandy dunes (although these pale in comparison to the seemingly endless dunes of the Sahara). 

The Agafay region is dotted with small towns and villages, all set against the backdrop of the Atlas Mountains, which can sometimes be covered with snow. It definitely doesn’t have the desert wilderness feel of the Sahara but that doesn’t take away from its natural beauty. 

When I’ve stayed in Agafay, I’ve loved watching the shifting colours as the sun moves throughout the day and the Atlas Mountains in the distance only add to the drama. Plus, with the mountain range so close, Agafay provides a fantastic base for hiking excursions and village visits in the Atlas.

If you’re planning a long weekend in Marrakech or have limited time to explore Morocco, making the trek to the Sahara Desert might not be practical. In this case, Agafay offers a fantastic alternative for a quick getaway from the city’s hustle and bustle.

On an overnight trip to Agafay, you can participate in a range of classic desert activities, all while staying at a luxury camp where you’ll be treated like a king or queen. 

If you’re looking for inspiring places to stay in Marrakech as a solo traveller, you’ll find some of my top recommendations here.

A rocky desert landscape in Agafay, Morocco
A rocky desert landscape in Agafay, Morocco

Activities in Agafay for solo travellers

When it comes to activities, you have a full range of options available in Agafay, including the most quintessential desert experience – camel trekking. While this isn’t a means of getting to camps (as it is in the Sahara), it can easily be arranged on arrival, as can all activities.

When I arrived at my Agafay camp, they provided me with an activity “menu” and could arrange all sorts of things with their partner agencies at relatively short notice.

Quad biking is perhaps more popular in Agafay than in the Sahara as you have established roads to explore, as well as donkey trails and dry river beds. Horseback riding is also readily available and you’re close enough to hot air balloon launch sites that you could add this to your Agafay itinerary. 

While there is good stargazing in Agafay, I would say that it’s not quite as amazing as in the Sahara where you’re so far from a big city that the light pollution is almost non-existent. I would also say that the cultural experiences in Agafay aren’t quite as authentic as those in the Sahara, where many of the camps are run by descendants of nomadic tribes. 

Where Agafay really does shine is with its high-end activities, such as private picnics in remote locations and professional photo shoots complete with flowing gowns and camels! You can also participate in everything from cooking classes to pottery workshops or indulge in a massage. The proximity to Marrakech just means that a lot more activities are possible.

So if you’re someone who likes to be go, go, go and wants a wide choice of things to do during your desert stay, then Agafay might be for you.

A swimming pool at a luxury desert camp in Agafay, Morocco
A swimming pool at a luxury desert camp in Agafay, Morocco

Accommodation in Agafay for solo travellers

Many people tout Agafay as being the best desert destination for luxury travellers, largely due to its wide choice of high-end camps. Generally speaking, the camps here are “permanent” and built on rocky terrain, instead of sandy dunes like in the Sahara, where the camps tend to be more “temporary”. 

There’s no denying that many of Agafay’s camps are really luxurious, complete with swimming pools, gourmet restaurants and lounges where you can unwind between activities. If you’re worried about being without mod-cons like air-conditioning in the Sahara, then staying at an Agafay camp might be for you. 

Top tip:

With higher end facilities come higher prices and you’re probably going to pay more for a luxury camp in Agafay vs Sahara. If you’re a solo traveller watching your dirhams but still want a luxury experience, then I’d suggest comparing prices between the two regions before locking in your choice.

While most Sahara desert camps are nestled within the dunes, many of the best Agafay camps are perched on hills and boast sweeping views across the surrounding terrain. Sitting in a cabana or on a sun lounger and soaking in the scenery is all part of Agafay’s appeal. After all, it’s the natural scenery that is luring most of us here in the first place! 

If you’re looking for Agafay desert camp inspiration, you can check out some of my favourites here.

A lounge at a luxury desert camp in Agafay, Morocco
A lounge at a luxury desert camp in Agafay, Morocco

Accessing Agafay as a solo traveller

In terms of getting to Agafay as a solo traveller, you can either:

Unfortunately, there is no public transport available from Marrakech to Agafay, so there’s really no “cheap” way of getting there. Even as a solo traveller, hiring a car is probably the cheapest way of getting there (rental cars are quite affordable in Morocco) but I know it’s not for everyone.

I’ve driven myself before and it was relatively easy, except for the last stretch along a winding dirt road that was filled with potholes! Make sure you have a GPS or Google Maps on your phone so you don’t get lost. 

For more information about driving around Morocco as a solo traveller, check out my detailed article here.

If you join a tour, you won’t necessarily get to choose your camp and will be taken to whichever property the agency is partnering with. That being said, you can ask in advance and do some research before you book to make sure it’s somewhere you want to stay.

If you’re a solo traveller who likes to connect with like-minded people and share transport expenses, then a guided tour to Agafay is a great option! Both GetYourGuide and Viator are good resources for finding guided tours to Agafay, complete with reviews from previous travellers so you can make an informed decision.

Alternatively, you can book the Agafay camp of your choice and ask them to arrange transport there for you. Private transfers can also be arranged independently in Marrakech – either ask at your riad/hotel or book one online through Viator or GetYourGuide.

While this will probably work out more expensive than hiring a car, it’s favourable to getting behind the wheel if that’s something you’re not comfortable with.

If you are really short on time, Agafay can also be visited as a day trip from Marrakech. Someone will pick you up from your riad and transport you to their partner camp, sometimes with a stop at an argan oil cooperative along the way. 

On arrival, you can simply relax beside the swimming pool or venture out on a camel trek or quad-biking experience, before returning to the camp for dinner. Many of the camps also include a fire show after dinner before driving you back to your Marrakech riad/hotel.

Personally, I think falling asleep in the desert and waking to an unforgettable sunrise is all part of the experience, so stay overnight if you can. The Agafay camp I stayed at (Kalyptus) also put on an incredible breakfast spread that was worth hanging around until morning for!

Looking for other day trips from Marrakech? Check out these 10 highly-recommended options.

A small village in the Agafay region of Morocco
A small village in the Agafay region of Morocco

Visiting the Sahara as a solo traveller

Famous for its vast sea of dunes, the Sahara Desert spans a large chunk of North Africa. It’s the image most people conjure when they think of a desert – a sweeping expanse of ochre sand that is perpetually shifting and reshaped by the wind. The sense of grandeur and scale is unmatched!

Personally, I don’t think the landscapes in the Sahara are any more “breathtaking” than those in Agafay – they are just completely different! However, the experience of being surrounded by what is a seemingly endless wilderness is incredibly special and does set this region apart in the Agafay vs Sahara debate.

It’s this feeling of isolation that is a huge part of the Sahara’s allure, together with the timelessness of being in a region that has been traversed by nomadic tribes and caravans of traders for centuries. While Agafay has been “transformed” into a desert destination for tourists (in recent years), the Sahara has been visited by travellers for centuries.

Camel footprints in the dunes of the Sahara on a small-group tour from Marrakech
Camel footprints in the dunes of the Sahara on a small-group tour from Marrakech

Reached via the gateway towns of Merzouga and M’Hamid, the Moroccan Sahara lies around 500 kilometres from Marrakech. It takes around nine hours to get there from Marrakech to Merzouga (the gateway to Erg Chebbi) while M’Hamid (the gateway to Erg Chigaga) is a bit closer at seven hours away. You can learn more about the difference between Erg Chebbi and Erg Chigaga here.

If you’re travelling from Fes, Merzouga is a seven-hour drive and M’Hamid more like 11 hours. Either way, it’s a full day’s journey.

For more information about planning a solo adventure to the Sahara, check out my detailed article here.

Spectacular rock formations in Dades Gorge
Spectacular rock formations in Dades Gorge, which can be visited en route from Marrakech to the Sahara

While the journey from Marrakech or Fes to the Sahara is far, there is a lot to explore along the way, including some of my favourite destinations in Morocco. If you can squeeze it into your Sahara itinerary, I’d highly recommend incorporating Dades and Todra Gorges, the oasis town of Skoura and the historic ksar of Ait Benhaddou, all of which can be visited en route from Marrakech.

From Fes, you can easily stop in the Swiss-inspired town of Ifrane, spot Barbary macaques in Azrou and discover the palm-studded Ziz Valley en route to the Sahara. And if you travel from Marrakech to Fes via the Sahara (or visa versa), you can experience all of the above! Check out my suggested itinerary here.

In summary, venturing all the way to the Sahara is more than just a desert experience – it allows you to explore Morocco beyond its big cities and bustling medinas. However, you need time to do it – unlike Agafay, it’s not just a quick overnight trip from Marrakech. I’d suggest at least three days, but ideally four so as not to be rushed. 

Activities in the Sahara for solo travellers

Once you arrive in either Merzouga or M’Hamid (the gateway towns to the Sahara), that’s when your desert adventure really starts – it’s just endless dunes (and desert camps) stretching as far as the eye can see.

Depending on where you are staying, you’ll probably reach your Sahara Desert camp via 4×4 or camel. Unlike in Agafay, you can’t simply drive up and park your car at the camp.

Once you’ve booked a desert camp, they’ll explain where the meeting point is – usually a hotel in Merzouga or M’Hamid with which they are affiliated. If you’re driving yourself, there are safe parking areas to leave your rental car.

From the meeting point, you’ll be transported by 4×4 jeep to your camp or you’ll board a camel for a guided trek. These usually take place in the late afternoon so you can experience sunset along the way. Camel trekking is an amazing way to suddenly immerse yourself in the nomadic lifestyle and, in my experience, the camels are treated ethically.

Aside from camel trekking, there are lots of other activities available in the Sahara, although probably not as many as in Agafay. It’s possible to go quad-biking, but most of these excursions are along established roads and through small villages, rather than through the dunes themselves.

Top tip:

Want to try sandboarding? The Sahara is the place to go, largely due to the lack of large sand dunes in Agafay. Basically, you have a board strapped to your feet and you slide down the dunes!

For stargazing, I think the Sahara Desert is superior to Agafay because you’re further away from light pollution. The stargazing experience I had in Erg Chebbi was simply incredible and I’d venture back to the Sahara for that alone!

I would also argue that the Amazigh cultural experiences are more genuine in the Sahara. Many of the camps are operated by the descendants of nomadic tribes who have inhabited this area for generations.

Through their hospitality, they are offering a unique window into their lifestyle. Plus, your tourism dollars are helping keep their traditions alive, rather than forcing people to find jobs in big cities far from home.

Sandboarding is a popular activity in the Sahara Desert for solo travellers to Morocco
Sandboarding is a popular activity in the Sahara Desert for solo travellers to Morocco

Accommodation in the Sahara for solo travellers

Compared to Agafay, the desert camps in the Sahara are less permanent and are usually nestled among the dunes. They essentially mirror the arrangements that nomadic tribes and travelling caravans would have utilised while traversing this area in centuries gone by.

Most camps consist of several private sleeping tents arranged around a campfire, along with a communal tent for meals and evening activities. At budget camps, the bathroom facilities may be shared, but you’ll definitely have an ensuite if you’re staying at a luxury Sahara camp.

If the concept of “camping/glamping” doesn’t appeal to you but you still want to experience the Sahara, you can opt to stay at one of the hotels in Merzouga or M’Hamid. Many of these are really atmospheric, drawing inspiration from the historic kasbahs that dot the region. Plus, some come equipped with swimming pools and air-conditioning, which can be lifesaving in the summer months!

During the daytime, you can set out on camel treks or 4×4 tours from your accommodation, then come back and soak up the dune views poolside. Despite being closer to light sources, the stargazing remains incredible in Merzouga and M’Hamid. Many hotels have rooftop terraces with loungers where you can recline and gaze up at the night sky.

Golden dunes in the Sahara Desert
Golden dunes in the Sahara Desert

Accessing the Sahara as a solo traveller

When it comes to travelling to the Sahara as a solo traveller, you have three options:

Personally, I love renting a car and driving around Morocco, as you can stop whenever/wherever you want and craft your own itinerary. I also think the driving is relatively straightforward, once you get out of the big cities and become accustomed to the country’s unique traffic conditions

But I understand that driving in a foreign country isn’t for everyone, particularly if you are travelling solo. If you want to learn more about what to expect on Moroccan roads and how to hire a car in Marrakech, you’ll find all the info you need here. It might just help you decide if it’s something you want to try!

A good alternative for solo travellers is public transport. There are long-distance buses available to both Merzouga and M’Hamid with reliable companies like CTM and Supratours. Both operate daily departures between Marrakech or Fes and Merzouga, as well as from Ouarzazate or Marrakech to M’Hamid.

Generally speaking, Moroccan buses are air-conditioned, safe and comfortable, complete with reclining seats. While travelling by bus to the Sahara takes longer than driving and you can’t stop wherever you want, it is an affordable option for solo travellers.

You can learn more about what to expect travelling by bus around Morocco in my detailed article here. Bus tickets can be booked directly with the companies or you can compare various options (and book tickets) at 12Go or Omio.

A Supratours bus parked at a station in Marrakech
A Supratours bus parked at a station in Marrakech

It’s worth keeping in mind that even if you rent a car and drive to Merzouga/M’Hamid or get a bus there, you’ll need to rely on some form of guided experience to reach your camp. Because of the dunes, you can’t simply drive into a parking lot next to the camp and unload your bags.

As mentioned above, most camps are accessed either via 4×4 or camel and this is usually organised with the camp after booking.

If you’re not driving yourself, the most convenient way to access the Sahara as a solo traveller is with a guided experience. When it comes to Sahara tours, there are heaps of options to choose from, whether you want to fly solo or join a small-group experience.

It goes without saying that a private Sahara tour will be more expensive, but you’ll get to customise the experience to your interests. Small-group tours to the Sahara from Marrakech and Fes are more budget-friendly and you might strike up friendships with like-minded people along the way.

I love that some Sahara tours begin in Marrakech and end in Fes, doubling as a transfer and allowing you to experience so much of the country along the way. 

My main advice for booking a tour to the Sahara would be not to rush it – two days is not enough! Opt for either a three-day or four-day experience, otherwsie you’ll spend most of the time in a car getting there and back. 

If you’re interested in tours to the Sahara, click on these links to discover some of the top options from Fes and Marrakech. Alternatively, you’ll find a wide range of Sahara tours from both cities at Viator or GetYourGuide.

An earthen building in Agafay, Morocco
An earthen building in Agafay, Morocco

Agafay vs Sahara: Responsible tourism in Morocco’s desert regions

Before signing off, I want to emphasise the importance of responsible tourism when planning a solo adventure to Morocco and, in particular, it’s desert regions. Several locals have expressed concern to me about the decline in business in the Sahara as Agafay becomes more popular, largely due to its accessibility from Marrakech.

In essence, if travellers choose not to visit the Sahara because they believe they can have a similarly authentic desert experience in Agafay, then the residents of some of Morocco’s most remote communities are missing out. Some Moroccans feel that there is already a substantial amount of tourism revenue being generated in the Marrakech area, which includes Agafay.

By choosing to spend your money in the Sahara, you are contributing to the preservation of nomadic traditions and customs, rather than forcing the descendants of the Aït Atta people to relocate to urban areas for employment. While I understand that visiting the Sahara isn’t possible for everyone (largely due to time and travel constraints), I would encourage you to keep this in mind when making your decision.

A camel train moving through the Sahara Desert backed by the early morning sun
A camel train moving through the Sahara Desert backed by the early morning sun

Agafay vs Sahara Desert: Best time to visit

When planning a trip to either Agafay or the Sahara Desert, it’s essential to take seasonal variations into account, as these can greatly influence your overall experience.

The Sahara is ideally visited from October to April when the daytime temperatures are pleasant but not excessively hot. It’s worth keeping in mind that the nights in the desert can get quite cold, especially during the winter months. In my opinion, gathering around a campfire and admiring the clear, starry skies (they are at their best in the wintertime) more than compensates for the chill.

From late May to September, the Sahara can experience extreme heat, with temperatures often exceeding 40°C (104°F). This makes it difficult to venture out into the dunes during the day without ending up dripping in sweat. If you do decide to visit at the height of summer, staying at one of the kasbah hotels in Merzouga or M’Hamid (which have air-conditioning and pools) might be worth considering.

In contrast, Agafay is more accessible year-round, lacking the huge temperature extremes found in the Sahara. Nevertheless, spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) provide the most pleasant temperatures. Summer is still really hot in Agafay and the winter nights can be quite cold.

Agafay vs Sahara: Which Moroccan desert experience is best for solo travellers?

Ultimately, I can’t definitively say which desert experience suits you best: Agafay or Sahara. It really hinges on the kind of adventure you’re after, how much time you have available and where you’d like your tourism dollars (or dirhams?) to go.

If you only have a day or two, Agafay is an excellent choice and I find the rocky desert scenery here to be stunning. Besides enjoying glamping in a luxury tent, you can embark on camel treks and quad biking or simply relax beside a campfire while gazing at the stars at night.

If you can spare at least three days and desire a deeper cultural experience in the desert, then the Sahara is your best bet. The trip to the Sahara is an unforgettable adventure in itself, leading you through magnificent landscapes dotted with ancient ksars and kasbahs.

In the Sahara, you can ride camels as the sun sets, sleep beneath a starry sky in a traditional Amazigh tent and appreciate the timeless allure of this iconic desert region. Although the Sahara demands more time and travel, the feeling of solitude and peace you get here is unmatched.

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